Swell remnants

There was still some remnants of the swell from Tuesday lingering today, Thursday. The water still hasn't cleaned up from the storms, but its slowly regaining the color back (that's not brown, yuck). Water was pretty chilly today. Rode the 8'8" Takayama noserider with some degree of success, but not a whole lot. I just wish it was a 9'0". Will ride the 9'0" tomorrow. Hope there are still waves.In the mean time, enjoy this video of Takayama team rider Noah Shimabukuro ripping some big surf on Maui

Solid Blackies for a day

After the initial big swell dropped off on Sunday a bit, Monday got small, but then yesterday a new swell came up and Blackies came alive yet again. The waves were solid, head high to slightly overhead peaks. Really good with some juice. Surfed for a few hours before work, traded some peaks with Kevin S. and had a really good time on the Scorpion. Water cleaned up a tad, but was still a bit dirty from last week's rains. Not too many folks out, and I inadvertently dropped in on a guy, who took off later than me. I didn't see him and was about to wrap it around when he let me know he was behind me. I then pulled out immediately, saying sorry as I ended what was a pretty good ride. He still rode the wave in and we talked briefly when he paddled back out. Totally cool guy. Anyway, here's a YouTube clip I found via Board Collector's blog.

Dirty Blackies

Surfer/Photographer Bart Tuck sent these photos of Blackies on Saturday Jan. 23, 2010. The waves were pretty much going off, except for that brown tinge of hepatitis, staph infectionitis, cholera, and all other mad diseases that flow out to sea during a big storm. Hope nobody gets sick, cause the water looks like poo.

Storm Blows over

After a week of rain and wetness, it appears that things may dry out for a spell. Below is some of your basic trash that washed up on the beach at Blackies.

Surf in Long Beach

And they say there is never any surf in Long Beach. Sink the breakwater!

Surf in Long Beach

Sunday Blackies

Surfed Sunday from 7 to around 930 this morning. Swell was still in the water but not as clean as Friday. The lefts near the jetty was working but walled. I caught about three or four lefts on the 9'8" Junod, and discovered that the board needs sidebites when the waves are hollow. The board kept spinning out even with the 9.75-inch Greenough 4A. I'm looking for some Future sidebites for the board, because spinouts are no good.

Surf Friday

There was good surf at Blackies today. Surfed this morning before work andenjoyed some pretty solid swell from the W that rolled through this week. Although Friday was supposed to be the tail end of the swell that started mid week, it was still solid 4-6ft. The place was totally crowded from HB interlopers, but I still was able to get a fair share of good set waves. Super glassy today and even saw Jaime, the surfboard shaper who used to shape my boards when I was in high school. Caught three or four solid rights and as many lefts, and on the last left, I got stuck inside and watched this one guy I know from HB catch three waves before I could even get out, so I called it a day. It was a relentless set of about 10 waves, of which half I got on the head and had to bail on my board. I was just really stuck inside and decided to give it up, already have surfed for two hours.

Flat Blackies

IMages from the early morning. No surf

Blackies Jan 3

Surfed Blackies am from 7am to 10am. Place was packed. Waves were about 2-3 with a few head high sets. Rode the 7'2" Guy Takayama GWAT. What a zoo. Got a few good ones, as well as some sets. But the place is crazy. All in all, the waves were good, water was freezing and dirty, and crowded. Typical OC surf spot.

Back to Blackies

Surfed high tide, freezing, crowded, crappy Blackies yesterday and have to tell you I didn't have much fun. Talked with Pooch about my trip to O'ahu, and let me tell you something, say what you want about the man, but this guy understands the plight of the Hawaiian people. When I told him about the homeless encampments, he said that the government needs to give the Hawaiians some land back that they stole when they overthrew the queen. And I couldn't agree more. The Big Island is large enough to support what is left of the Hawaiian people.

Homeless in Hawaii

Things have changed quite a bit on Oahu from 10 years ago when we moved b/to California. The Waianae coast, which remains one of the most beautiful drives on Oahu, has been innundated with tent cities, homeless encampments for those unfortunate Hawaiians who have lost their homes, jobs, but surely not hope. It has to be a combination of the economy, drugs, whatever, there needs to be a solution. In addition to Waianae, these encampments can also be seen in Hauula, Kaawaa, Punaluu, and even Kahuku, as well as in town at the beach park at Ala Moana and Kapiolani Park. It really is sad. We fed several homeless people in Kapiolani Beach park on Christmas day, with food from Zippy's. I know not the best food, but still food nonetheless, and the people that we gave the food to were very grateful, especially this couple living underneath a tent/tarp structure at Ala Moana. It is a pressing problem especially in Waianae, where families have been displaced and are living with a bit of shelter. I am not sure how dire the situation is, but it is not the Hawaii that I know, and the people and Government need to step up, and not to just ban camping at Kapiolani or Ala Moana. Mufi needs to figure out a solution.