Larry Bertlemann, Hawaii circa 1970

Larry Bertlemann 16mm Shredding - Sea Movies from www.KORDUROY.tv on Vimeo.

Paddle out for Timmy O'neill

Yesterday the Blackies crew had a paddle out for Tim O'neill, one of the most progressive surfers at Blackies. Tim was an older guy, having grown up surfing during the late 1960s-early 70s. He roomed with the father of Al Knost in Hawaii for several seasons, until Mr. Knost up and joined the army and went to Vietnam. Tim was one of those hardcore longboarders who absolutely ripped on a longboard. Although his board was a single fin, he rode it as if it were a 2+1, not really a noserider but a power surfer. In the short time that I knew him, we traded waves almost everytime we were in the water together, and we complimented each other on our surfing ability. There was no bullshit that I could feel in any of our conversations, which is surprising given that Blackies is sort of a bullshit place where some people tend to be more full of bullshit than anything else. Thank god the bullshit people didn't show up at Timmy's paddle out. I was just talking to Trace on our way to Doheny this morning about who showed to pay respects to Timmy, and we both said, nearly in unison, that the mean people of Blackies didn't show up. That was fine and all. The tribute was fine without the nonsense.

At any rate, bye timmy, and catch some lefts for me in heaven.

Al Knost at malibu

I am pretty sure this is the day my fb friend buji brownlegs was at Malibu. Al's shredding as usual and Tanner, well, Tanner's Tanner, a great surfer and shaper.

Alex Knost : Summer Shreddin' at the Bu from buji brownlegs on Vimeo.

Five OHver

Surfed with Trace this am at Church. Passed Old Faithful blowing in the winds. . . offshore winds at the Rip Curl store and took a gander at lowers as we exited Basilone Road. Sweetness. Was micro from the road, and even smaller when we went over the bridge over looking Church. Parked and looked at Church, then the Point, then Church, then the point. We decided to go to Church. We lugged our Model T's down the beach. Dang that 10fter is HEAVY. DId the rock dance and paddled out to less than a handful of people surfing the micro waves. But it was worth the walk. No winds, the water was warm, Glassy and an occasionally peeler came through. Caught my first wave with 5 Oh over ever on the Model T. Was super stoked to plant five toes. Was the wave of the day, must've been a 20 yard nose ride. I love when it works out like that. Walked back to Sano and it was a zoo, plus the wind shifted direction and we decided to call it a session. SUPER FUN.

Surfing Sorsogon

Cloud 9 Philippines teaser

Kai Sallas ripping at OceanSlide