Church

Trace and I surfed Church today. Kevin and I looked at the usual spots and they were not picking up the swells, though the cliffs had good size if a bit walled. Kevin couldn't go down south so I picked up Trace and we headed to Sano. Sano was a bit mushy when we got there so we walked to Church. Church was firing, not perfect, but it had size, with the sets going overhead. Dano was out on a shortboard. Most of the surfers were riding thrusters. Trace, me, and maybe three or four others were the only ones with longboards. I had a blast dropping in, cutting back and then just hitting the turbo benzo button. It was really pretty fun. The rights were pretty long, and if you caught the first of the set, you got pounded going back out. I then saw Dano drop in on another guy, full on snake drop, and the guy was spazzing at Dano for dropping in, and Dano finally pulled out of the wave. My last wave, a guy on a longboard dropped in on me, and while he got stuck on the top of the wave, I just started pumping up and down, up and down. I gained some speed but couldn't catch the guy, and I then headed it in. It was actually a pretty fun day. Got home around 12:30.

Alex Knost on a Model T?

Breakfast at Blackies from RVCA on Vimeo.

Holly Beck Barrells

Holly Beck showcasing some cool goPro video she shot from her board cam.

Swell remnants

There was still some remnants of the swell from Tuesday lingering today, Thursday. The water still hasn't cleaned up from the storms, but its slowly regaining the color back (that's not brown, yuck). Water was pretty chilly today. Rode the 8'8" Takayama noserider with some degree of success, but not a whole lot. I just wish it was a 9'0". Will ride the 9'0" tomorrow. Hope there are still waves.In the mean time, enjoy this video of Takayama team rider Noah Shimabukuro ripping some big surf on Maui

Solid Blackies for a day

After the initial big swell dropped off on Sunday a bit, Monday got small, but then yesterday a new swell came up and Blackies came alive yet again. The waves were solid, head high to slightly overhead peaks. Really good with some juice. Surfed for a few hours before work, traded some peaks with Kevin S. and had a really good time on the Scorpion. Water cleaned up a tad, but was still a bit dirty from last week's rains. Not too many folks out, and I inadvertently dropped in on a guy, who took off later than me. I didn't see him and was about to wrap it around when he let me know he was behind me. I then pulled out immediately, saying sorry as I ended what was a pretty good ride. He still rode the wave in and we talked briefly when he paddled back out. Totally cool guy. Anyway, here's a YouTube clip I found via Board Collector's blog.

Dirty Blackies

Surfer/Photographer Bart Tuck sent these photos of Blackies on Saturday Jan. 23, 2010. The waves were pretty much going off, except for that brown tinge of hepatitis, staph infectionitis, cholera, and all other mad diseases that flow out to sea during a big storm. Hope nobody gets sick, cause the water looks like poo.

Storm Blows over

After a week of rain and wetness, it appears that things may dry out for a spell. Below is some of your basic trash that washed up on the beach at Blackies.