Surfed Blackies on Sunday from 630 to 10am. A NW swell was in that came down from Canada and was supposed to bring big surf primarily to Oregon, Northern and Central CA, with SoCal receiving any remnants. Blackies was a pretty good spot Sunday though a bit crowded (as usual for a weekend). I got some nice rides and a few off the tops. I am getting real confident with the Scorpion, it has not yet disappointed, though I did take off on a wave where I was too deep and didn't make the drop. It was actually a wave I should've let go for the guy on the shoulder who was better positioned. I also got snaked by this local guy, just an out and out dangerous drop in he pulled. What a dick. Now payback will be a bitch next time out.
ON Monday, I surfed with Stan the man, and it was a lot cleaner today with much less crowdage. I got an in and out and in and out barrel in front of Danny boy, another Takayama afficionado, and then got shacked again in front of Dano, who was paddling over the shoulder as I slowed down in the pocket so he could make it over. Waves were a good 2-3, just nice walls to hop onto, a little fast on the lefts but still extremely makeable. It was a fun session, but I forgot the camera. This blog needs photos. I also wore the new X-zip for the first time. What a pain in the ass to take off. But it was warm and I could feel the benefits of a front zip.
Subscribe to:
Post Comments (Atom)
No comments:
Post a Comment