Surf Friday

There was good surf at Blackies today. Surfed this morning before work andenjoyed some pretty solid swell from the W that rolled through this week. Although Friday was supposed to be the tail end of the swell that started mid week, it was still solid 4-6ft. The place was totally crowded from HB interlopers, but I still was able to get a fair share of good set waves. Super glassy today and even saw Jaime, the surfboard shaper who used to shape my boards when I was in high school. Caught three or four solid rights and as many lefts, and on the last left, I got stuck inside and watched this one guy I know from HB catch three waves before I could even get out, so I called it a day. It was a relentless set of about 10 waves, of which half I got on the head and had to bail on my board. I was just really stuck inside and decided to give it up, already have surfed for two hours.